Saturday, September 18, 2010

Pardon My Absence (pt 2)

The Grand Canyon by rail, courtesy of AmTrak.

Very romantic, very scenic, and at times very frustrating. With that in mind, I'd like to talk about Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Albuquerque is the epicenter of Suck.

This was scientifically tested and proven during our trip west.

If you live in or are from Albuquerque, I am sorry. Really, really sorry. You should move! Your life would be a whole lot better! Just ask NPH or French Stewart!

The trouble started about an hour outside of the city.

We were informed that we would be spending over an hour at the station, so practically no one made reservations for dinner on board the train. Because everybody knows that the one thing Albuquerque has going for it, besides hot-air balloons, is burritos.

BUT THEN - We started hitting unexpected red signals, requiring super slow speeds and verification from the home station and a whole bunch of hassle.

By the time we got to the station, we were informed that it would only be a 15 minute stop, and if you had to disembark, you should stay close. So, no yummy overstuffed burritos laced with fresh green chiles for us. Instead: microwavable pizza from the snack car!

But here's the kicker: Because the resident citizenry of Albuquerque is too stupid to realize that unticketed people actually do have to get off the train at some point, we were actually at the station for over an hour!!! Not allowed to go search out yummy food, but put behind schedule minute by minute because people's family and friends wouldn't get off the train!!!!

What is up with that??

[deep breath to decompress]

(This helps, a little...)

So, I have figured out the formula for Albuquerque: The closer you get, the more things suck. The further away you are, the more things improve. But you are left with a residual craving for burritos.

On the way back east, we were given an unexpected gift. We arrived in Albuquerque an hour ahead of the time printed in the schedule, for an hour-plus stay (must've been a typo). We managed to blindly find some super delicious burritos within three or four blocks of the train station.

Fellow passengers were violently jealous.
We were threatened with stoning.
Good times!

An added bonus to train travel: We arrived back in Chicago three hours before our bus was scheduled to depart. In that time, we managed to track down a Pizano's location within walking distance - home to the best pizza we've ever had, and a super selection of draft beer, to boot. Hadn't visited in 4 years. SO glad we had the opportunity.


So I suppose it's all good, despite the existence of Albuquerque.

Travel by train.
Seriously - DO IT.
If you can at all afford it, do it.
At least once.

If you don't, you might miss something you can never imagine.
Good or bad, it's still a happening.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Pardon My Absence (pt. 1)

We went on a little trip...

Pretty, isn't it?
It was in celebration of our 5th wedding anniversary.

This trip to the canyon was gorgeous and awe-inspiring and nerve-wracking and beyond description, as usual, but we did notice a disturbing trend of young people wearing flip-flops emerging from steep trails and racing to the edge of the rim to balance on one foot, taking pictures with their cameras the whole way.

Wearing flip-flops!

oh my god!!!!

But, since this is a food blog and not a travel blog, let's get down to the matter at hand:

I managed to con my husband into dinner at both the Bright Angel and El Tovar. That's right, two of the most famous National Park lodges EVER. Go ME!! (OK, so we split the cost. I still consider it a win. :-p)

Dinner #1: Bright Angel (The Arizona Room)
Him: The best corn chowder I've ever tasted, creamy with some whole (fire-roasted?) kernels, topped with crispy tortilla strips. There was nutmeg in that soup, I think. Possibly white pepper and cinnamon. Main course was blue corn breaded chicken with an ancho honey sauce, served with hominy mixed with wild rice and some steamed veggies.

Her: A nondescript though yummy green salad, followed by an incredible serving of baby back ribs cooked in a prickly pear barbecue sauce, served with a portion of green chile "creamed" corn and the requisite steamed veggies.

I loved how fully they captured the flavors of the region, and I loved that I wasn't the only person taking pictures of my food.

As a bonus, they prepared one of the best martinis I've ever had. Making it super easy to wander into the crevasse a few yards away...


Dinner #2: El Tovar
... The eldest and grandest lodge at the Canyon, El Tovar is not the kind of place where one feels comfy whipping out a flashing camera to take a snap of the main course. I can, however, tell you what we ate:

Together: Appetizer of mozzarella roulades of prosciutto and basil pesto, served with tiny kalamata olives and marinated yellow and red roma tomatoes, drizzled with olive oil.

(Very, very, VERY good, and I don't even like olives. Ate them all.)

Him: Roasted Half Duck with Citrus Marmalade Glaze, served with roasted poblano black bean rice.

Her: Sauteed Rainbow Trout with Pumpkin Seed Pesto and Rice Pilaf.

This was Matt's first foray with duck, and I'm glad to say it was prepared phenomenally. The flavor of all the dishes was fantastic.

We never ordered dessert.... Perhaps the best capper that could ever be was walking out into the night to see the universe laid bare above us. Thousands of stars, meteors, and the Milky Way tumbling around in the absolute blackness.


(Coming soon, pt. 2: Did I mention that we travelled by train?)